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Posts from the ‘Desserts’ Category

Once Upon A Fig

There was a fig tree in the backyard of the house where my grandfather was born in Yaguajay, Cuba. I know this because he told me the story-often. Having moved with his family to Havana, he found himself in the province years later and decided to knock on the door of his old house. He asked the family living there if they had a fig tree, and they brought him through the house and showed it to him.  Only then did he tell them who he was and how he knew it was there.  I always wondered why they’d let him go through the house in the first place and pictured their polite confusion while they waited to see where all this was going. Read more

Estrellitas

If you’ve ever been to a Cuban bakery, you know that the only question is how you’d like you’re guava.  In puff pastry, shortbread, masa real, with crackers or as flan, I never get tired of it.  Cupcakes were inevitable.  I’ve been making guava cupcakes with cream cheese frosting for friends but hadn’t come across just the right combination till last week.  I tried small pieces of guava paste that sank to the bottom and  guava jelly that was undetectable.  Preserves piped in just after baking worked the best, but I haven’t found them outside of Florida.  Tired of hoarding the tiny jars I’d bring back from Miami, I found a recipe for an easy filling made of guava paste, orange and rum.  A Cuban solution for a Cuban cupcake. Read more

That’s No Lady

I have a regrettably low tolerance for alcohol.  Typically, I’ll sip a mojito till it’s watered down to nothing or nurse a light Mexican beer most of the night.  I’m that girl.  So it’s odd that I’ve spent this week spiking sorbet with cava, getting a lobster drunk on rum, and now drizzling lady fingers with vermouth and yet more rum for a Bien Me Sabe,  a Venezuelan dessert of lady fingers layered with coconut cream.

Whenever I have people over, I always go to Latin Chic written by my friend Isabel González-Whitaker and co-author Carolina Buia.  Living in the neutral territory of New York City where everyone is from somewhere else, it’s full of simple but great ideas to add a cultural twist that’s honest to entertaining in Latin American style.  Looking for a dessert to bring to a dinner party, I made their version of Bien Me Sabe or “It Tastes Good to Me”.  This one in particular comes from Carolina’s great-aunt Mercedes Camps.  The legend goes that she made it for Venezuela’s future president Rómulo Betancourt when he was hiding from political adversaries in her home.  It’s impossible not to admire a woman who not only offers refuge to those in need but then throws in dessert.  After three weeks, she smuggled out the father of Venezuelan democracy disguised in one of her dresses. Read more

Summer Break

Maybe it’s because of the “what I did on my summer vacation” essays, but summer always feels like a project.  You’re given 2-3 months to put together a set piece for future memories and expectations are high.  Even as an adult, fall blends into winter which blends into spring, but summer stands apart.  It’s hard not to spend Labor day weekend thinking about what I did or didn’t get to do.  It also marks my 100th post since I started writing this blog, though some days, I’ve felt like it’s been writing me.  Still, I love where it’s taken me, and I’m still hungry for more.  I wanted to end the season with fresh cava sorbet, a mix of Spanish sparkling wine, strawberries and oranges.  It seemed like the right palate cleanser to catch my breath, send off summer and start making plans for fall. Read more

Pan y Chocolate

Since August has been more hectic than I’d planned, I’ve been enjoying my own kitchen vacation this week.  With family visiting,  I’ve avoided my usual pitfall of putting together an over ambitious meal with only a 50/50 chance of success.  This morning I kept it simple.  I found a Catalan recipe in Anya Von Bremzen’s The New Spanish Table for toast with chocolate and olive oil.  Just a baguette brushed with olive oil then toasted or broiled for a couple of minutes till golden, covered with melted dark chocolate then sprinkled with Maldon sea salt.  With only a few basic ingredients, I can dwell on which chocolate to use or whether my olive oil is sufficiently “fruity”.  An easy lesson learned, and something to remember the next time I’m elbow deep in the kitchen. Read more

Oh Fig!

A friend coined the term produce shopaholic on her blog, Mindy’s Recipe for Disaster.  If I’d read her post earlier, I may have recognized the symptoms before I went on a why-not-bender at the Park Slope Food Co-op yesterday.  Though I love figs, I rarely buy fresh ones.  I have plans for tarts and compotes, but the slightest delay and they’re past all use.  Still, I couldn’t resist when I found organic Calimyrna figs.  I reasoned that the green ones would at least give me a head start, and they were so cute and plump I had to take them home.  A quick search online and through my books gave me a couple of ideas.  I had some this morning drizzled with peppered honey and Spanish goat cheese with sweet olive oil crackers.  It was sweet, spicy, flowery and creamy all at the same time.  The recipe from Bon Appétit could not be easier, so there is no reason to put off using them straight away.  I also found an interesting recipe for fig compote with red wine and spices among the formidable 1080 Recipes, one of my favorite cookbooks/step stools that I’ll try next.  Now that I’m hooked, I’ll need more figs.

For the complete Fresh Figs with Goat Cheese and Peppered Honey recipe click here.

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Pastel de Mango Verde

I still remember seeing the “Cookies” sign for the first time.  Just off the corner of Smith Street, I was drawn to the bright blue storefront realizing with disappointment that they were closed for the night.  Peering through the grating into the store (it was pretty sad), I knew I’d be back.  I reasoned that if an entire bakery was dedicated to just making cookies, they must be really good cookies.  If the same cookies were displayed  lovingly gift wrapped, they must be uniquely great.  I’ve been scratching at their door ever since. Read more

Ice Cold

Anyone who has ever chased an ice cream truck, begged for an Italian ice on the way home, or broken their new Snoopy snow cone machine on Christmas morning (still bothers me), will understand how excited I was  when my friend sent me this article by pastry cook Gaby Camacho, A Chef Perfects the Paleta of Childhood, from the San Francisco Chronicle.  Raised in Tijuana, she sets off in search of the paletas and raspados of her childhood.  Remembering flavors like cucumber and lime, rose petals, and tequila, I could understand why she would be nostalgic.  As an adult, I’ve stayed away from raspberry blue popsicles and radioactive snow cones, but I love the idea of making them with fresh ingredients from home.  Trying the raspado de tamarindo first, I used all natural tamaring pulp from a nearby bodega to make the syrup.  I’ll try it again when I find fresh tamarinds and some of the other combinations she suggests as longs as the heat lasts.  It can’t be harder than chasing ice cream trucks.

Last Minute

I was in the final stretch of making Sunday lunch for my uncle and favorite cooking aunt, debating where I should buy a jar of dulce de leche to add to the polovorones or shortbread cookies I’d made earlier.  The gourmet shops nearby carry the good but expensive La Salamandra while the Colombian stores have a wider selection but seemed too far away in Queens.  I decided to make my own instead.  Though I knew it was easily done at home, I’d always avoided it in the past.  Worried about exploding cans, we’d take them off heat too early and end up with milky mustard instead of a deep caramel (though it was still happily eaten).  I found these recipes on From Argentina With Love for making dulce de leche at home that skipped the treacherous can boiling.  Unwilling to face yet another grocery store run to buy whole milk, I tried the second version where a can of condensed milk is cooked in the top of a double boiler over a pan half filled with water.  Though it takes 2 to 2 1/2 hours, it only needs to be checked and stirred about every 45 minutes freeing me up to work on other things.  Because I’d rolled the polvorones thinner than usual, I watched the cookies closely and shortened the baking time to 10 minutes.  I let the dulce de leche cook the entire time for a thicker consistency.  Too rich to spread, it was the right consistency for holding together the crumbly cookies.  A painless last minute (+two hour) solution. Read more

Something Sweet

This week I’ve been practicing my Abuela Carmita’s natilla, a traditional custard similar to the Spanish crema catalana.  A teacher in Cuba, my sister and I were left with her in the morning to learn Spanish which our parents worried we’d forget.  After making us cafe con leche with toast (sliced in thirds and sprinkled with sugar), she would start the natilla early so it would have time to chill.  Setting aside the whites to make meringues later, she’d heat the milk and beat the egg yolks.  My sister and I would watch her stir, ready to fight over the wooden spoon and the raspa left behind in the still warm pot after she’d poured out the custard into individual blue bowls.  Mixing the meringue with my grandfather, they’d piped it into tiny mounds and set them to bake, then he would make lunch while we sat down to our lessons.  Lamenting that if we still lived in Cuba we’d be learning French instead, she’d lead us through the letters and rhymes in our silabarios until lunch was ready.  When it was finally time for dessert, my grandfather’s bowl would have the cinnamon stick and lime peel (not sure why) while ours had our initials written across the top in cinnamon (which I just realized is almost impossible to do).  The crisp meringues would disappear in a puff leaving behind a slightly soft center while the custard was smooth and creamy but held its form.  Teaching myself the recipe, I worried that the yolks would scramble and spent almost an hour in my sweltering kitchen stirring one batch over too little heat.  Remembering her easy patience, I tried again. Getting it right on my third attempt, I can’t stop going to my refrigerator to look down at the same blue bowls finally full of my grandmother’s natilla. Read more