Archive for the 'Chile' Category

Panqueques Celestinos

It’s hard not to be drawn to a recipe by a beautiful photograph.  Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid’s Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent, and Francis Mallman’s Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way have all escaped from my kitchen shelves to my coffee table (where both the books and I feel they belong).  Not surprisingly, Santiago Soto Monllor won this year’s James Beard award for Best Photography for Seven Fires. Continue reading ‘Panqueques Celestinos’

So Far, Yet So Near

I am always looking for the best ingredients, but there are some things I just can’t find nearby and some I probably shouldn’t be able to find nearby.  I try to stay local but the temptations of a jet-setting Prosciutto di Parma or a well traveled Chinatown dragon fruit can be difficult to resist.  Still, it’s hard not to wonder what your missing when someone else does the picking and packing.  The subtle differences between varieties and vendors that you can only discern when it’s close to home.  That’s why, when trying a new cuisine, dessert can be the best place to start.  I may not find the right Peruvian pepper or Argentinian zapallo, but milk, grains and sugar are universal and need little translation (or transatlantic travel).  I’d been looking for a Chilean recipes to try and found several I wanted to include but kept circling back to this custard made with semolina and wine syrup (wine being the exception that was meant to travel the earth). Continue reading ‘So Far, Yet So Near’

Catching Up in January

I took advantage of a rainy Sunday to catch up on some reading though, instead of newspaper stacks, I had  bookmarked pages and Google alerts filling up my inbox.  For the New York Times, Jonathan Miles visited Roneria Caracas, a new Brooklyn bar specializing in rum drinks, in The Choices? Rum or Rum and doesn’t miss the whisky while Paola Singer went to western Spain to sample the Dom Pérignon of Iberian ham for In Spain, A Delicacy Rooted in Earth and Tradition. Meanwhile, Continue reading ‘Catching Up in January’

Puro Chile

I was excited to read about the opening of a store in Soho dedicated to the sale and promotion of Chilean gourmet food products and wines.  I’m always searching for new ingredients and it’s good to have a new focus for my obsession.  Puro Chile, a Hitchcock-sleek light box store on the corner of Center and Grand, is definitely obsession worthy.  What’s most surprising is how warm the space becomes the moment you step inside.  The staff is genuinely enthusiastic and the sparse room is dominated by  a large tasting table at the center.  Though they’re inventory is still growing, the shelves are lined with avocado oils and wine vinegars Continue reading ‘Puro Chile’

New Map

I’ve been going through this week’s New York Times travel section featuring Latin America, specifically  an awakened Chile, colonial Colombia, 36 Hours in Montevideo, Rio hot spots, Peruvian restaurants, and rejuvenated Mazatlán.  Travel exhausts me but its a fun read.

Singing Salt

I spent the day at the Brooklyn Book Festival at Borough Hall wandering in and out of readings and seeing friends.  With little time to cook, I thought it would be right to end the day with Chilean poet, Pablo Neruda.  In his Elementary Odes, he writes to wine, tomatoes, maize, large tuna, chestnuts, artichokes, lemons.  Here the salt sings back. Continue reading ‘Singing Salt’

Una Causa

I was curious when I read Katie Workman’s post in The Daily Beast about the rivalry between Peru and Chile over the potato’s origin.  I asked my aunt, who has lived in Lima enough decades to put down her own roots, if it was true.  When I received an all caps email from my usually soft spoken aunt, I knew not only was it true, it was serious.  I could see why countries would fight over it.  Comforting and generous, potatoes lend themselves to almost everything.  Regardless of its origin, I was curious to know what Peruvians did with them.  She directed me to a friend’s website, Yanuq, an extensive source for traditional and contemporary Peruvian recipes and ingredients.  I started looking at recipes for causas, mashed yellow potatoes seasoned with aji amarillo, lime juice, and oil and then stuffed with anything from octopus in olive sauce to chicken and beets.  Deciding to start picnic simple, I chose the causa de atún, a jelly roll or brazo gitano style loaf filled with tuna, tomatoes, and avocados.  Despite a wide market search, I wasn’t able to find the Peruvian aji amarillo but followed a suggestion on eGullet to use habaneros soaked in milk as a substitute.  Still, my market search did bear fruit since I found fresh chirimoyas instead with the sticker declaring them the product of Chile.  I wonder what Peru thinks of that? Continue reading ‘Una Causa’

Taking Off

Escaping from a sudden afternoon downpour this week, I found the SAS World-Wide Restaurant Cookbook at the Atlantic Book Shop.  Published in 1960 and sponsored by Scandinavian Airline Systems, journalist Charlotte Adams visited 36 countries in search of the best restaurants and their favorite recipes.  I haven’t had a chance to try any of the recipes just yet, but I’m already in love with her descriptions where she’s quick to point out where to go continental and where to go native.  Speaking Continue reading ‘Taking Off’

Next Time in Chile

I have no present plans to visit Santiago, Chile but I love saving these travel articles when I come across them.  I thought this wonderful review of Hosteria Doña Tina worth keeping if only because it says there are few restaurants in Santiago that serve traditional Chilean food, so I’ll want to remember where they put this one.  Actually, I find this true of many Latin countries, and I’m not sure why.  Perhaps because so many swear that the best, most authentic food can only be found in their homes, the only alternative is to have their actual mother as the chef and the brothers and sisters as waiters.