The Elena Ruz sandwich always seemed a little out of place on the menu. A combination of roasted turkey, cream cheese and strawberry preserves, it floats alongside the heavier ham, lechon asado and cheese melds of Cuban lunch menus – lighter and prettier with a first and last name. Named for Elena Ruz, a Havana socialite who had the unusual combination made to order for her at El Carmelo. Then a fashionable cafe in the 1930s, it landed on the menu becoming a popular item. According to later interviews, her parents were scandalized to see a sign for “Sandwich Elena Ruz 25 centavos” on display, though as she pointed out the other sandwiches only went for 10 cents at the time. Continue reading ‘Elena Ruz’
Archive for November, 2009
Elena Ruz
Published 28 November 2009 Bread/Baked Goods , Cuba , Light Lunch 1 CommentTags: Cuban sandwiches, El Carmelo, Elena Ruz, Havana, Havana Cafes, Roasted Turkey
Anticipation, Apples, Almódovar
Published 25 November 2009 General , Miami , New York Leave a CommentTags: Greenmarket, Northern Spy Apples, Pedro Almodovar, Thanksgiving, Wicked Witch
I’ve always loved the day before Thanksgiving. Even as my crepe paper pilgrim hat was melting in Miami’s November heat (started out as a Pilgrim lady ended up as the Wicked Witch) in school or a last minute deadline turned my half day into overtime as an adult, I could buzz along on anticipation alone, excited for the days ahead. For a few years I’ve had my own pre-Thansgiving rituals – early day (a day off with a dash of reprieve), quick stop by the Union Square greenmarket for northern spy apples (they go top secret on me when I need them for pie), and an early afternoon movie, ideally the newest Pedro Almódovar which seems to arrive just in time.
Holiday Nesting
Published 23 November 2009 Breakfast/Brunch , Puerto Rico 1 CommentTags: Carmen Aboy Valldejuli, Eggs in a Nest, Huevos al Nido, Luis F. Valldejuli, Puerto Rican Cookery, Rafael Trufino, Thanksgiving
Its bothered me for awhile that I haven’t included more Puerto Rican recipes. There are so many similarities with Cuban food, that I dip towards the more familiar Cuban side when in doubt, like a bird flying with one wing. Recently, I found a copy of Carmen Aboy Valldejuli’s classic, Puerto Rican Cookery, which I hope will restore the balance. There are many reasons to love this book. To name a few, words like carefully and thoroughly are in bold making the recipes more emotional while delicioso and sabroso are translated to”Caribbean” when no other word will do; Rafael Tufiño contributed illustrations; and there’s a sweet black and white picture of her husband, Luis Valldjuli serving her a rum drink from the chapter he contributed on the back cover. Continue reading ‘Holiday Nesting’
Snow Days
Published 20 November 2009 Bread/Baked Goods , Breakfast/Brunch , Cuba , Desserts , Miami , Recipes 2 CommentsTags: Churrera, Churros, Cocina al Minuto, Nitza Villapol, Versailles Restaurant
Though it’s typically full, it’s rare to see a line outside of Versailles restaurant in Miami. It’s only on the rare cold night that it actually reaches capacity, especially when there’s a run on churros. Any day that dips below 65 becomes an impromptu holiday in a summer town, a Miami snow day of sprinkled sugar and fried dough. The lines form and the usual late night orders for medianoches and mariquitas become churros and hot chocolate.
I think it’s the special occasion quality I associate with churros that keeps me from buying them in New York (though I’d never pass them up in Madrid – I’m not crazy). Yesterday, deciding I needed a little Christmas now, I brought out the churrera, that my mother who hates to cook but loves kitchen gadgets sent, and my Continue reading ‘Snow Days’
Practical Packages
Published 18 November 2009 Basic Techniques , Bread/Baked Goods , Light Lunch , Spain 2 CommentsTags: A Taste of Old Cuba, Alhambra, Anya Van Bremzen, Empanadas, Empanadas de Pollo a la Moruna, Granada, Hernan Cortes, Maria Josefa Lluria de O'Higgins, Mexico City, Pastel Moruna, Puff Pastry, Sophie Coe, The New Spanish Table
With the holidays coming fast and furious, I had the uncharacteristically practical thought that it was time to make empanadas, an easy way to use leftovers. So sensible, but after a poor initial batch involving sirloin tips and too-buttery dough, I had to start from scratch. I was looking for something in a chicken, baked not fried, and maybe a little sweet. That’s when I found Anya Von Bremzen’s recipe for pastela moruna, Moorish chicken with dried fruits and Continue reading ‘Practical Packages’
Sunday Mornings
Published 15 November 2009 Breakfast/Brunch , General Leave a CommentTags: Cafe con leche, Destry Rides Again, Fred and Ginger, Swing Time, TCM, The Thin Man, Wizard of Oz
I thought I left behind my Saturday cartoon habit in elementary school but realized it’d just morphed into my early Sunday morning movie ritual. I do try to sleep in like everyone else but it’s impossible to explain to my two yorkies why they should let me on this one day of the week (either they don’t want to learn or they can’t learn). Not that I mind too much since it’s the only day I don’t feel obligated to check the weather, headlines or facebook first thing. Cafe con leche and TCM is like cake for breakfast. It doesn’t even have to be particularly good, as long as it’s black and white and has that low crackle soundtrack of sizzling bacon. Maybe I never got Dorothy opening the the sepia door to Oz, but its become my own way to test the waters for the week ahead. A Thin Man movie, it’s going to be a good week. Destry Rides Again, could be trouble. Fred and Ginger, might be s’marvelous.
One Example
Published 11 November 2009 General Leave a CommentTags: and a game plan, can do for the single shopper, Judith Jones, The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food, Washington Post, What an expert eye
As someone who was scolded by a deli owner for trying to buy a stick of butter out of a 4-pack, I loved reading about Judith Jones’ attempt to buy a single stalk of broccoli in Joe Yonan’s, “What an expert eye, and a game plan, can do for the single shopper,” in the Washington Post. Throwing away food is one of my all time pet peeves in the kitchen. I take every expired yogurt and pepper gone mushy as a personal failure so I was inspired by Ms. Jones determination. A few months ago I attended a reading of her memoir, The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food, she kindly advised me to follow my own muse in her dedication. For now, I’ll just follow her example and make every ingredient count.
Fairest of Them All
Published 10 November 2009 Desserts , Spain , Vegetarian Leave a CommentTags: Asturias, Baked Apples, Gwyneth Paltrow, Mario Batali, Pilar Sanchez, Snow White, Spain...A Culinary Road Trip
I really miss apples when they’re gone. I try to follow the seasons, stay local, only buy what’s available at the farmer’s markets but have to admit that I cheat all the time when it comes to apples. Not that I have to these days – the markets are bursting with every variety. My great grandmother, who grew up on a farm in Asturias where they made their own cider, lived to be a very healthy and graceful 103. It could have been the apples or the Estée Lauder but its definitely worth a try. Having found a simple recipe for baked apples, I looked for variations with added butter, custard, almonds, or preserves. They all looked great, and I’ll Continue reading ‘Fairest of Them All’










