Rather than folded into a log, jelly-roll style, the potatoes and fillings are layered into individual molds.  A little awkward at first, by the time I had 2 or 3 down, I learned to measure out the same amount of filling to even the layers, was careful not to pack down the chicken so it’s absorbed into the potato and was using a spoon dipped in a canola oil to smooth out the layers without adding any pressure.

Unmolded, I had a neat cross section of the seasoned potatoes with herbed chicken and bright green avocado. Though it seemed like a lot of steps, the potatoes and chicken could be prepared beforehand then chilled so the only heat comes from the ají amarillo, more sun than fire. A little more involved than the usual summer salad but worth the effort when you can but don’t necessarily want to stay out of the kitchen.

Causa de Betarraga Rellena de Pollo y Palta/Beet Causa filled with Chicken and Avocado
Adapted from Yanuq. The potato-beet mixture can be made ahead and will be easier to work with when its had time to chill. The chicken can also be poached and prepared ahead of time (directions below).

Instead of individual servings, the causa can also be layered into a larger mold or springform pan. If you’re using a mold, it should be layered with lightly oiled plastic wrap and unmolded just before serving.

2 lbs. gold potatoes
1 medium beet

1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup lime juice
1-2 tablespoons ají amarillo paste
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 whole chicken breast, cooked and shredded (see below)
1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
2 tablespoons culantro, chopped (cilantro can be substituted)

2 avocados, sliced
2 eggs, hard boiled, peeled and sliced
Lime juice to taste
Mayonnaise, optional

Additional slices of eggs, avocado, olives to serve.
Parsely, finely chopped to garnish

Special equipment: a 2 1/2-inch round biscuit or cookie cutter (without handle; at least 2 inches high)

Lightly score each potato around its circumference. Place potatoes in a large, heavy pot with enough cold water to cover and a 2 heaping tablespoons of salt. Bring to a boil then adjust heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook until tender, about 20-30 minutes depending on the size.*

In a medium saucepan, add beet with enough water to cover. Bring to a simmer and cook until tender, about 30-45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel skin. Roughly chop beets and add to a food processor or blender, process to a smooth puree (if needed add cooking water). Set aside.

Drain the potatoes. When cool enough to handle but still warm, peel the potatoes by pulling off the skins (scoring beforehand makes this easier). Pass through a ricer or food mill into a large mixing bowl. Add the vegetable oil, lime juice, ají amarillo paste, salt and pepper and mix until well blended.  Add the beet puree a little at a time until you reach the desired color without watering it down, about 1/4 cup. Chill until ready to use.

To make the filling, combine shredded chicken, mayonnaise, parsley, and culantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice the avocados and sprinkle with lime juice.

Set the biscuit cutter over the serving dish. Add two tablespoons of the potato-beet mixture and pat down to form an even layer. Top with avocado slices, egg slices and mayonnaise (optional). Add a second layer of the potato-beet mixture. Add a layer of shredded chicken. Top with a final layer of the potato-beet mixture. Smooth the top with the back of a spoon or offset spatula. Gently lift the cutter up and away. Repeat with remaining causa mixture and filling.

Serve with hard boiled egg slices, avocado, and olives.

Makes 8 individual causas or 1 large causa using an 8″ springform pan.

*To test, pierce the potatoes with a sharp knife. An undercooked potato can be pulled from the water with the knife but a cooked potato will drop off and remain submerged.

Cooked Chicken Breast

1 whole chicken breast
Salt to taste
1 large garlic clove
1/4 cup white onion, roughly chopped
2 sprigs cilantro
2 sprigs fresh mint
2 cups water

Put the chicken, salt, garlic, onion, cilantro, mint and water in a large saucepan.  Bring to a simmer then lower heat and cook until cooked through – about 20 minutes.  Allow the chicken to cool off in the broth.  When cool enough to handle, drain the chicken and shred into pieces.  Set aside chicken and reserve broth.

Newly in love with my spring cleaned shelves, I decided to make arepas de dominó, stuffed with black beans and cheese, relying mostly on what I had on hand.  With little shopping to do apart from peppers and onions, I had to time to obsess about other things, namely what cheese to add.  Though Mexican queso blanco and some Colombian varieties have become common, Venezuelans always complain about the trouble they have finding cheese north of Miami.  Luis, my new market friend, pointed me towards El Cocotero that sometimes sells the fresh cheese they use in their restaurant.  He recommended queso llanero or guayanés though I was only able to find the latter. The queso quayanés was closer to a fresh mozzarella or burrata than the queso blanco I normally use, not quite melting but pooling into the black beans and worth the trouble of seeking out.

Arepa de Dominó/Arepas with Black Beans and Cheese
Since it opened up around the corner, I’ll use any excuse to visit Union Market.  Bright, always stocked with samples, and piping in the a soundtrack that inspires occasional dancing in the aisles, it’s the breakfast at Tiffany’s of neighborhood grocery stores in that I can’t imagine anything bad happening there.  Already planning on making arepas, this is where I met Luis who apart from the lead on Venezuelan cheese shared a few tips on how he makes arepas for his family, that Venezuelans call frijoles negros caraotas, and that where he’s from in the Eastern part of Venezuela they add a little sugar to the dough.  He also suggested stirring in a little butter or oil to the masa.  Small changes but they were definately the creamiest arepas I’ve made and even puffed up slightly as promised.  The filling can soak through the arepa so I made them larger and thicker than usual.

1 cup masarepa, preferably Harina P.A.N., white or yellow
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 ½ cup hot water
1 tablespoon melted butter or canola oil

1-2 tablespoons canola oil

For filling:
Caraotas negras, prepared (also known as frijoles negros or black turtle beans)
Queso guayanés or fresh mozzarella, cubed

Combine the dry ingredients. Pour water into a medium mixing bowl.  Add cornmeal in a steady stream, whisking constantly to avoid clumps. Stir in the melted butter or oil. Knead until well mixed and set aside to rest, about 5-10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and set aside.

Divide the dough in quarters and shape each piece into a ball.  Using the bottom of a flat measuring cup or mixing bowl, lightly press down on the dough to form a disc about 1-1 ½” thick.

In a cast iron or heavy skillet, heat oil over medium high heat.  Add the arepas and cook until lightly golden and crisp, about 4-6 minutes on each side.  Transfer to a baking sheet and bake an additional 15-20 minutes until cooked through.  Split open and fill with caraotas negros and cubed cheese.

Makes 4-6 arepas.

Normally, I go with the plain version made with potatoes and onions that I first learned in Madrid (where it’s never late).  The simplicity of a traditional tortilla is hard to improve upon and adding ham, chorizo or peppers makes it different but not always better.  I changed my mind when I spotted a tray of Spanish chorizo in a butcher shop on Smith Street that looked to good to pass up – so I didn’t.  After lightly browning the chorizo and adding the garlic and peppers, I slow-cooked the potatoes and onions in new Chilean olive oil I was trying out.  For once the potatoes didn’t drown out the chorizo though next time I’ll lightly roast the peppers first.  Two harrowing flips later, it was set and cooling.

I always associate tortillas with the holidays.  A tortilla with plantains is the first thing I ask for when I land in Miami and Christmas morning my aunt always orders a few sky-high ones from Delicias de Espana -more pillow than omelette- to start the day of picadera.  Versatile and even better the next day, it’s great with toasted baguette and topped with aioli and red roasted peppers when I’m in a rush and alongside white rice and black beans when I’m not.  Made on a Sunday afternoon when I had all the time in the world, it got me through the nights when I didn’t have any time at all.

Tortilla de Papas y Chorizo
This was the first dish I made for my grandparents as an adult (or at least I thought I was) and I remember the relief I felt when my grandfather announced I had found el punto de la papa – the point where the potatoes are just cooked through enough to easily split in half.  Of course, the flip is the most nerve wrecking part and, as I’ve said before, I’m superstitious about anyone else being in the kitchen when I do it.  Or maybe I just want to buy myself some time in case I need to repair the damage.

1 green bell pepper, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 Spanish-style chorizo, about 5 ounces, cut into ¼” pieces

3-4 medium, Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into slices a 1/4″ thick
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
6 large eggs, well beaten
1 tsp salt plus more to taste

Heat the one tablespoon of the olive oil in large heavy skillet over medium heat.  Add the chorizo and sauté until lightly browned, about 2-3 minutes.  Add the peppers and garlic and sauté, about 3 minutes.  Remove the chorizo and peppers from the pan and set aside.

Add the remaining olive oil to skillet and return to medium heat.  Add the potatoes and onions to the skillet and turn with a spatula, careful not to let them brown.  Sauté until the potatoes are just tender and break apart with slight pressure from the spatula, about 20 minutes.

Beat the eggs with the salt in a separate bowl.  Remove potatoes and onions with a slotted spoon and add to the beaten eggs.  Add the chorizo-peppers mixture and combine.  Adjust salt to taste.  Pour out all but about 1 tablespoon of oil and set aside.*  Add the egg mixture to the skillet and cook over medium heat until the eggs begin to set and the underside is lightly browned.

Take the skillet off the burner and cover with a large plate.  Holding the plate down firmly, quickly turn over the skillet so that the tortilla slides out onto the plate.   Return skillet to medium heat and add additional oil if needed.  Slide tortilla back into the skillet and cook on the other side, an additional 5-7 minutes until it reaches desired degree of doneness.

Flip the tortilla one more time onto serving plate.  Serve at room temperature, sliced into wedges or cut into squares.

*Note – I sometimes strain the oil I’ll be using and wipe out the skillet to remove any overcooked pieces of onion or potato before adding the eggs so that it slides out easily when flipped.

The Elena Ruz sandwich always seemed a little out of place on the menu.  A combination of roasted turkey, cream cheese and strawberry preserves, it floats alongside the heavier ham, lechon asado and cheese melds of Cuban lunch menus – lighter and prettier with a first and last name.  Named for Elena Ruz, a Havana socialite who had the unusual combination made to order for her at El Carmelo.  Then a fashionable cafe in the 1930s, it landed on the menu becoming a popular item.  According to later interviews, her parents were scandalized to see a sign for “Sandwich Elena Ruz 25 centavos” on display, though as she pointed out the other sandwiches only went for 10 cents at the time.

Sandwich Elena Ruz
Though its served all year, this is my favorite way to use Thanksgiving leftovers. Traditionally made with strawberry preserves, leftover cranberry sauce can be substituted.

Roasted turkey, sliced
Strawberry preserves
Cream cheese, softened and blended
Pan de Medianoche*

Slice roll in half.  Form a 1/4″ wide strip down the middle of each half and spread an even layer of  strawberry preserves on both sides.  Cover with one half with a layer of roasted turkey and top with an even layer of cream cheese.  Press on a greased griddle until lightly toasted and warmed through.  Cut on the diagonal and serve.

*Toasted white bread can be substituted for the pressed sandwich roll.

Pan de Medianoche
Originally adapted with permission from Three Guys From Miami Cook Cuban by Glenn Lindgren, Raúl Musibay, and Jorge Castillo.  I substituted butter for lard and added the final cup of flour by hand.  I’ve re-posted the recipe to reflect some changes I made the second time around.

2 packets (dry active) yeast (4 1/2 teaspoons)
3/4 cup white sugar
1 1/4 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees F)
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
3 eggs
2 teaspoons salt
4-5 cups bread flour, more or less

1 egg beaten with 2 tablespoons warm water

In a large bowl, mix yeast and three tablespoons sugar in one 1 1/4 cup of water. Place in a warm place and wait for the yeast to begin bubbling. (If it doesn’t bubble and foam, you have some bad yeast or something else went wrong and you’ll need to start over.)

Beat the eggs until foamy.  Add the eggs, the rest of the sugar, salt, and melted butter to the yeast/water mixture.

Using a mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment on low speed, add four cups of flour, one cup at a time.  Continue to beat on medium, until the dough begins to pull away from sides of the bowl.

Pour dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead in remaining cup of flour, as needed, until dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.  Form dough into a ball place into a large, greased mixing bowl, immediately turning over so that all sides are greased.  Cover with a piece of lightly greased plastic wrap and set aside in a warm, draft free place until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.  At this point it can be refrigerated over night and brought to room temperature before proceeding.

Place the dough on your work surface and punch it down.  Divide the dough into good-sized handfuls.  Roll each handful on a lightly floured surface to make cylinders about five inches long and about 2 1/4 inches in diameter. Arrange rolls on a lightly greased baking sheet.  Cover with a slightly damp, clean towel. Let rise in a warm place for about one hour or until the rolls double in volume.

Preheat oven to 350º F

Brush the tops of the rolls liberally with the egg glaze. Bake until golden brown — about 25 to 35 minutes. Remove the rolls from the oven, take them off the baking sheet and let cool on a wire rack. While they are still warm, brush the tops with a little melted butter. Use for medianoche sandwiches, or serve warm as a side dish.

Tired of tilting windmills (or in this case ventanitas) looking for a great croqueta, I tried this version of croquetas with Gorgonzola and jamón Serrano from Cuisine à Latina.  Served with dollop of fig jam, it was a perfect balance of sweet and savory.  I love appetizers for lunch so I threw together a salad of arugula and sliced pears to have with them.  It was lovely though I missed the banter of people crowding the bakery windows, the constant whir of the espresso machine, and the pack of saltines and wedge of lime that comes with every order of croquetas, leaden or not – the cost of going it alone.

Croquetas with Blue Cheese and Jamón Serrano
This recipe is adapted from Michelle Bernstein’s Cuisine à Latina and can also be found here.  Though a little labor intensive at first, they can be made ahead and frozen so they’re prefect for parties.  I would try them with prosciutto as well.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium Spanish onion, diced
1/2 cup unbleached, all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 ounces Gorgonzola dolce or other creamy blue cheese, crumbled
1/4 pound Serrano ham, cut into thin 1/2-inch strips
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Pinch of cayenne pepper
2 large eggs, well beaten at room temperature
1 cup dried bread crumbs
Canola oil, for deep frying

Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper and set aside.

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat.  Add the onions and sauté until soft but not browned, about 4 minutes.  Add the ham and cook about one more minute.  Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly until well incorporated, about 4 minutes.  In the meantime, gently heat the milk until hot but not boiling.  Gradually stir in the milk, turning constantly until the sauce has thickened and is pulling away from the sides of the pan.  Add the Gorgonzola and stir until its completely melted.  Season with salt, pepper and cayenne.

Pour the mixture onto the lined  baking sheet using a rubber spatula to spread evenly.  Bring to room temperature then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, at least one hour.

Lay out 1/2 cup of flour, beaten eggs, and bread crumbs in separate mixing bowls.  Dust hands with flour and spoon the béchamel mixture into walnut sized pieces and roll into desired shape.  One by one, roll the croquetas in flour, then drop into egg mixture with a fork or slotted spoon, then transfer to bread crumbs.  They should be completely coated in bread crumbs or they will leak when cooked.*

Add about 3″ of oil to a large heavy skillet.  Heat over medium-high heat to 360°F.  Working in batches, carefully add the croquetas.  Gently turn until brown on all sides, about 3 minutes.  Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels or re-purposed grocery paper bags.  Return the oil to 360°F between batches.  Serve immediately.

Makes 16-20 croquetas.

*At this point, the croquetas can be frozen up to 1 month.  Arrange them on a baking sheet and freeze until firm then transfer to an airtight bag and freeze. Do not defrost before frying.

Colombian chef Rafael Palomino was inspired by a trip to Mexico to make this party appetizer that’s cured with tequila and ripe pears then quickly sliced up for guests.  I’d never seen tequila-cured salmon before so I knew that if I wanted to try it, I had to do it myself.  The original recipe called for well over a pound of salmon, so I cut it down to make just enough for individual tartines.  As usual, I went to Fish Tales on Court Street.  Taking their advice on the amount of salt, weight, and time I’d need for a smaller cut, I got the assurance to go it alone.  I was nervous when I removed the brine that I’d taken it out too soon (just under 24 hours), but it sliced cleanly and was butter smooth.  Topped with the mango relish over a loaf of pumpernickel smeared with crème fraîche, it was a great light lunch.  Completely worth a trip to the “gravlax section” of the salmon stream.

Tequila-Cured Salmon Gravlax
Adapted from Viva la Vida: Festive Recipes for Entertaining Latin Style by Rafael Palomino, Arlen Gargagliano, and Susie Cushner.

1 8-ounce salmon fillet, pin bones removed
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons mint leaves, finely shredded
1 ripe pear, cored and cut into 1/4″ thick slices
1 tablespoon gold tequila
Mango and lime relish (see below)
4 slices pumpernickel, rye or multi-grain bread
4 tablespoons crème fraîche (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Place each fillet on a piece of plastic wrap, skin side down.  Cover fillet with salt and blanket with mint, followed by pear slices.  Sprinkle with tequila and wrap tightly in plastic wrap.  Weight the salmon using a few canned items and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours.

Just before serving, unwrap the salmon and remove pears, mint and salt.  Rinse and dry.  To serve, slice on the bias.  Spread each slice of bread with a tablespoon of crème fraîche and top with a few slices of salmon and relish.  Season with salt and pepper.

Makes 4 servings.

Mango and Lime Relish

1 mango peeled, cut from pit, and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 small cucumber, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 tablespoons gold tequila
Juice of 1 orange
Juice of 2 limes
6 fresh mint leaves, stacked, rolled, and cut into fine shreds
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon Pommery of Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine mango and cucumber in a medium bowl and set aside.  Combine the remaining ingredients in a small bowl and blend well.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  Pour over mango and cucumber and toss to coat.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to three days.

Makes 2-3 cups.

Empanada Gallega/Galician Pie
Adapted from 1080 from Simon and Inés Ortega featured on Epicurious, November 2007.

1/4 ounce (1 package) active-dry yeast
3/4 cup lukewarm water
3 eggs
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for brushing
14 ounces skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, cut into strips
2 canned or bottled bell piquillo peppers, or roasted bell peppers, drained and cut into strips
Salt

Mash the yeast with a pinch of salt and the lukewarm water in a cup or small bowl until smooth, then let stand for about 10 minutes, until the mixture is frothy. Beat two of the eggs in a bowl. In a large mixing bowl, combine the yeast mixture, eggs, and salt.  Gradually add the flour to the liquid, one cup at a time until just combined.  Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface.  Add the butter and knead the dough, about 5 minutes.  Add a little water to the dough if necessary.  Once the dough is smooth and elastic, form it into a ball, place it in a lightly oiled bowl, and cover with a clean dish towel.  Let rise in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours, until doubled in volume.

Meanwhile, make the “rustido.” Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the onions and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, until softened and translucent. Add the garlic, and cook for 5 minutes more.  Stir in the paprika and saffron and stir for 1-2 minutes.  Stir in the chorizo and cook for 2 minutes more.  Sprinkle with parsley, remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat the remaining olive oil in the skillet. Add the strips of meat and cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, for about 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the skillet with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Brush a 12-inch baking sheet or ovenproof baking dish with oil. Divide the dough into two pieces, one slightly bigger than the other. Roll out the larger piece on a lightly floured surface and use to line the pan or dish. Spread half the rustido over the dough. Lay the strips of meat on the rustido and add the strips of pepper. Spoon the remaining rustido over the top. Roll out the remaining dough and use it to cover the mixture. Seal the edges of the dough carefully, pressing them together and rolling them slightly. Pinch the dough in the center of the pie with two fingers to create a chimney to allow the steam to escape. Beat the remaining egg and brush it over the dough to glaze.

Bake for 15 minutes, then increase the oven temperature to 375°F, and bake for 15 minutes longer. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F and bake for 15 minutes more, until golden brown. Remove the pie from the oven. Serve hot or warm, straight from the dish, if you prefer.

Serves 6 to 8.

Willing but unconvinced, I chopped the scallions and garlic and sauteed them in butter.  I added equal parts milk and water and adjusted the seasoning.  While the soup simmered, I toasted some slices of baguette, lightly drizzled with olive oil.  By the time I dropped in the eggs, I was hopeful that I had something other than warmed over milk.  Ladling the soup over chopped cilantro, it came to life.  I set the cooked eggs over the toasted bread so I could break up the yolk slowly, working scallions and fresh herbs into every spoonful.  I was happy to be proven wrong.

Until recently, I saw comfort food as a kind of retreat.  A retreat from everyday anxieties, a retreat from the seasonal-locavore police, a retreat from knowing better but having it anyway because nutrition is the last thing you’re worried about at the moment.  This was different.  More than comforted, I felt restored.  I wasn’t surprised to learn later that Simón Bolívar gave it to his troops.  Associated with nostalgia and looking backward, I’d underestimated comfort food’s ability to get you through what lies ahead.

Changua/Milk Soup with Eggs
Though often served for breakfast, this soup can also be a light lunch or dinner.  The toasted bread can be broken up into the soup or served on the side.  It’s also considered a great cure for hangovers.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 garlic clove, minced
3 large scallions, finely sliced
2 cups whole milk
2 cups water
4 large eggs
1/4 cup cilantro, finely chopped
Salt and white pepper

Melt butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat.  Sauté the garlic and scallions until translucent, about 3 minutes.  Add milk and water to pot and bring to a high simmer over medium-high heat.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Break eggs into a small bowl or cup and then drop them, one by one, into the simmering liquid.  Cover and cook the eggs to desired degrees of doneness, about three minutes.  Remove from heat.

Spoon the chopped cilantro into shallow soup bowls or large serving bowl.  Ladle the soup on top.  Place a slice of toasted bread in the center of each bowl and top with the cooked egg.  Garnish with additional cilantro, salt and pepper.

Nothing takes the fear out of making a soufflé like making three in a row.  I found a recipe for one combined with amaranth that I couldn’t wait to try.  My training for this year’s New York City marathon is nearing the 20-mile mark so I’ve been cooking up batches of  amaranth to have on hand for cereal topped with honey and fruit.  While adding eggs and cheese may not be the best way to enjoy my vitamin high grain, it sounded wonderful and I’d been so good.

I used the last of the Roncal for the base and whipped up the egg whites to beak-of the-bird perfection.  I set it in the oven and congratulated myself on having an early night before a long run.  Then I realized that my whites may have been perfect but I’d forgotten to fold them before putting it the mold into the oven.  The egg yolks and cheese base just sat there, unsure of what to do next.  It was too late for my soufflé but I had some cooked amaranth left and just enough Gruyere to make another one.  My early night gone, I rushed.  Folding in my next batch of less than perfect egg whites, it still puffed up as hoped and I finally had my (now late) dinner.  Loving the way the tiny grains disappeared into the eggs like polenta, I was excited to try it again with quinoa.

Originally cultivated in the Andes approximately 5,000 years ago, quinoa is actually a seed in grains’ clothing.  A staple crop for the Incas, their rulers ceremoniously planted the first row with golden implements at the start of each growing season.  Packed with protein, fiber and amino acids, it’s a nearly complete food.  Quinoa can be buff or black but I thought red, sometimes sold as “Inca Red”, would be a nice contrast.  With all the time in the world and some unexpected practice, I wasn’t as apprehensive.  I’m not sure if noise really brings down a soufflé but I can attest that this one survived a double-Yorkie barking attack.  While not creamy like the amaranth, it retained just enough snap from the quinoa to keep it interesting.  Third time is the charm.

Soufflé de Quinoa/Quinoa Soufflé
Barely adapted from Maria Baez Kijac’s The South American Table.  Quinoa should be thoroughly rinsed in cold water, 2-3 times, to remove any trace of bitterness caused by saponin, a naturally occurring insecticide coating the grain.  The original recipe called for one cup of cooked amaranth which can be easily substituted for the quinoa.  Click here for a great article on beating egg whites and fearless souffle making.

2 tablespoons bread crumbs
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons unbleached, all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup hot milk
4 large eggs, separated
4 ounces Gouda, Gruyere, or Roncal cheese, finely shredded
2 cups cooked quinoa, red, buff, or black

Preheat the oven to 400°F.  Generously butter a 6-8 cup ceramic mold with butter and sprinkle it with bread crumbs.  Make sure that the bottom and sides are completely covered and shake out the excess.

To make the roux, melt the butter over medium heat in a small saucepan.  Beat in the flour with a wooden spoon and cook until foamy but not browned, about 2 minutes.  Off heat, add the hot milk, whisking constantly to incorporate.  Return to a boil over medium heat and cook until just thickened, about one minute and remove from heat.  Immediately add the seasonings.  Beat in the egg yolks one at a time.  Stir in the cheese until melted and add the cooked quinoa.  Empty into a large mixing bowl and set aside.

In a separate bowl or using a stand mixer, whip the egg whites to until foamy.  Add a pinch of salt and 1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar.  Gradually increase speed to form stiff peaks.

Stir 1/4 of the beaten egg whites into the quinoa mixture to lighten it.  Gently fold in the rest of the egg whites.  Pour the mixture into the prepared mold.  Place in the oven and immediately lower temperature of 375°F.  Bake until puffed and golden, about 30-35 minutes.  Leave in the oven an additional 5 minutes.  Serve immediately.

My monthly ñoquis del 29 post is either very late or extremely early.  Meant to bring luck when eaten at the end of the month, I was unlucky the first time I tried to make these gnocchi di susine or plum gnocchis.  A Triestian recipe similar to pierogis, they reflect the region’s blend of Mediterranean, Austrian, Hungarian, and Slavic cuisine.  I thought it would be a great way to use the late summer plums that are filling the markets and fulfill my August gnocchi post – two birds, lots of stone fruit.

I was thrilled when I found tiny Italian prune-plums that were perfectly ripe and just the right size.  Following the recipe closely, I blanched them as directed – a mistake.  They were supposed to split open just enough to remove the pits, be stuffed with sugar cubes, and folded into the gnocchi dough.  When I checked on the plums a few minutes later they’d been blanched to a pulp – there was no putting them back together again.  Disappointed but undeterred, I had some larger dark plums that were less than perfect, but cut down to size, might work.  I found an alternative recipe from Mario Batali, ran out for more potatoes, and started from scratch.  No blanching required, they were creamy, sweet and I loved the ways the plums and sugar melted together.  Some times a little luck is a lot of work.

Gnocchi di Susine/Plum Gnocchi
Adapted from this recipe by Mario Batali, they can also be made with prunes during if fresh plums aren’t available.  Perfect for dessert, I think they’d make an interesting appetizer or side dish.

2 1/4 pound russet potatoes
1 large egg, beaten
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 3/4 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour

4 red or purple plums, pitted and quartered or 16 small Italian prune plums
8 sugar cubes, halved or 3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
Cinnamon and sugar to taste

Place whole potatoes in a heavy pot with lightly salted water to cover and bring to a boil.  Lower heat to a low boil and cook until just tender, about 45 minutes.  When cool enough to handle, peel and force through ricer or food mill onto a sheet pan, spreading in an even layer. Cool potatoes completely.

On a lightly floured board, gather potatoes into a mound in sheet pan, using a pastry scraper if you have one, and form a well in center.  Pour beaten eggs and salt into the well, then blend into the potatoes. Sprinkle 1 1/2 cups of the flour over the potatoes and gently mix in.  Add remaining flour as needed until a dough just forms.  Dust top lightly with some flour and refrigerate until ready to use.

Bring water to a boil with 1-2 tablespoons of salt.  Pinch off a walnut-sized piece of dough and flatten into a 2 1/2 inch circle.  Place a quarter plum piece stuffed with a half a sugar cube in the center of each round of dough (see note).  Close the dough around the filling  to form a smooth package with no tears.  Repeat with remaining dough and plums.

Melt butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat.  Add the bread crumbs and toast until golden brown.  Remove from heat and set aside.

Add gnocchis, 8 or so at a time  (so that they don’t touch) to the boiling water, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.  Wait for them to rise to the top and continue to cook an additional 2 minutes.  Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well.  Add to the bread crumb mixture and gently toss to coat.

Place on a serving platter and sprinkle with remaining bread crumbs, cinnamon and sugar to taste.  Serve warm as an appetizer or dessert.

Makes 16 large gnocchis.