But Is It Cuban?
Looking back at my summer posts, I noticed a lot of limes on the side or off in the corner – standing by to restore the balance to anything too heavy, too rich, or just too fried.  With Labor Day coming up, it’s was only right to bring them front and center in a key lime pie.  I thought it would be a departure from my Latin American desserts when I came across a few references to the Cuban pastel de limón.  Made with juice from limones criollos – also known as key limes – and condensed milk, the custard is topped with meringue, and poured into a cookie crust made from galleticas Maria.  Could the key lime pie be Cuban?  According to Maria Josefa Lluria de O’Higgins, a version of the pie was brought to the Florida Keys in the late 1860′s with Cuban settlers during our war for independence.  Other alleged sources include self-made Florida millionaires, their cooks and local fisherman.  While I can’t pretend to be impartial, I will say this – creole limes, condensed milk, meringue – it certainly sound like us.

The origin of the galleticas Maria used for the crust is less ambiguous but far more grand.  I always thought Maria was the little girl in pig tails on the bright gold package of vanilla biscuits my grandmother would give us for an afternoon merienda.  Not so.  They were actually created by English confectioners Peek Freans in 1874 to commemorate the wedding of Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna of Russia and H.R.H Alfred Ernest Albert Saxe-Coburn-Gotha, the Duke of Edinburgh, Queen Victoria’s second son, in the Winter Palace of St. Petersburg.  Even now, her name, Maria or Marie (depending on where they’re made) is at the center of every one, surrounded by an intricate border, a period reference to Russian architectural design.  It’s possible that they could have made their way into the Cuban version of the Florida pie around this time though it’s hard to tell.  Popular throughout Europe and Latin America dipped in milk, coffee or tea, they were partly credited with Spain’s post-civil war recovery when a wheat surplus led to a Maria mass production.

More complicated than I’d imagined for a five ingredient pie, it made me wistful for a simpler time.  My grandparents had a key lime tree in their backyard and my grandmother would have us gather them when they rained down, hiding in the  grass and tripping us up.  Small, hard, and thorny, they weren’t pretty like lemons or juicy green like limes so I didn’t associate them with the creamy yellow pie I loved.  A hurricane in the 1926 wiped out most commercial key lime harvests in the U.S. making these scattered back yard trees that much more precious.  Though I keep a bottle of key lime juice in the refrigerator, I always buy a bag of the fresh ones, mostly imported from Mexico, when they make a rare New York appearance.  As happy as I am to find them, I kick myself a little for not appreciating them more when they were literally falling from the sky.

Pastel de Limoncitos Criollos/Key Lime Pie
Inspired by A Taste of Old Cuba by Maria Josefa Lluria de O’Higgins.  Floridians are very protective of their pie and there are disagreements about whether it should be a crumb or pastry crust, baked or not.  One thing everyone agrees on is that the pie should be yellow. Key limes turn yellow as they ripen so a toxic green custard is the sign of a bad dye job.  They can be hard to find and regular limes can be substituted, but I suggest using bottled key lime juice rather than fresh regular limes in this case.  Galletas Maria can be found in most Latin American and some large chain grocery stores and graham crackers can also be substituted.

For the crust:
30 galletas Maria (about 2 cups), well ground but not powdery*
6 tablespoons of unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:
1 14-ounce can of condensed milk
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup of fresh key lime juice*
1 tablespoon lime zest

For the meringue:
4 egg whites, at room temperature
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
Pinch of salt
1 cup of sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Grease a 9-10″ pie pan with non-stick cooking spray.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the cracker crumbs and melted butter until the mixture holds together.  Fill the prepared pan with the crumb mixture and press into the bottom and sides of the pan to form the crust.  If necessary, use a measuring cup to level the bottom and sides.  Bake 10-12 minutes until lightly browned.  Remove from oven and set aside to cool completely.  Freeze until ready to use.

Increase oven temperature to 375 degrees.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the egg yolks on medium until pale and fluffy.  Reduce the mixer speed and slowly add the condensed milk then the Key lime juice until well incorporated.  Pour the mixture into the pie crust (see note).

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites on low speed until foamy, about a minute.  Add a pinch of salt and cream of tartar and increase speed to medium until they hold soft peaks.  Gradually add the sugar and remaining lime zest and beat on high speed until it forms stiff peaks.

Cover the pie with the meringue and bake until lightly browned, about 12-15 minutes.  Allow to cool and completely and chill until ready to serve.

Note:  Instead of meringue, the pie can also be topped with freshly whipped cream.  At this point, bake the pie as directed then top with whipped cream before serving.

I was working on a recipe for Chilean mote con huesillos, a cool off summer drink made from dried peaches poached in burnt sugar syrup for Devour and considered using the fresh fruit popping up in the market. Since huesillos are dried by definition, it didn’t seem right to make that change. When I came across this recipe for huevos falsos, a nursery dessert of poached pears set over chantilly cream in Mirtha Umaña-Murray book, Three Generations of Chilean Cuisine, I decided I didn’t have to decide. I had the mote con huesillos on hand for the first heat wave of the summer and was poaching peaches when it cooled off just enough so I could stand being in my kitchen again.

The original recipe called for canned peaches but by poaching them I could make it as sweet as I wanted and infuse the peaches with any variety of fresh herbs, honey or wine I wanted. The result wasn’t too different than the syrup soaked peaches and cream I remembered growing up – bright gold but drizzled in pink, firm but quick to break apart, sweet but fragrant, theirs but mine.

Huevos Falsos/Poached Peaches with Chantilly Cream
Adapted from Three Generations of Chilean Cuisine by Mirtha Umaña-Murray. The original recipe was equal parts whipped cream and meringue. I didn’t want the meringue to overwhelm the sweetness of the peaches so I opted for a simple whipped cream. I’m sure I’ll be making this a lot this summer with grilled and poached peaches, apricots or nectarines and trying variations on the syrup with wine or honey.

3-4 large ripe but still firm peaches, halved and pitted
1/2 sugar
3-5 sprigs rosemary
3 sprigs thyme

2 cups heavy cream, well chilled*
1/4 cup confectioner’s sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Combine sugar and 2 cups of water in a wide-bottomed saucepan. Over medium heat, stir until the sugar has dissolved and bring to a simmer. Add peach halves, rosemary and thyme. Keep at a gentle simmer until tender, turning once, about 3 minutes on each side.

Remove peaches from the syrup with a slotted spoon. When cool enough to handle but still warm, remove peel (the skin will have wrinkled slightly and should pull away easily). Continue to simmer syrup with the herbs until it reaches desired consistency or is reduced by half.  Strain the syrup and discard the herbs. Chill peaches and syrup until ready to use.

Combine heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla in a medium mixing bowl. Using an electic mixer or beater, whip cream until soft peaks form.

Scoop out the cream and top with a poached peach. Add syrup to taste.

Makes 6-8 servings.

1 cup sugar
3/4 cups water
2 1/2 pounds carambola (star fruit), brown parts removed and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon cachaça or white rum

In a small, heavy saucepan, combine sugar with 3/4 cups water and boil for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Puree carambola in a blender until smooth. Strain into a large mixing bowl, pressing down on the fruit to extract as much juice as possible. Stir in cool syrup and cachaça and chill until cold, at least two hours or overnight. Process carambola mixture in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer sorbet to a covered container and freeze until ready to serve.  Top with fresh fruit.

Normally, I’m drearily practical about buying flowers. Even in spring, I opt for fresh herbs I can eat instead of pretty flowers I can’t. After an awful winter, I just can’t make myself care about being practical, bringing home spray roses, tulips, and daffodils at every opportunity. Of course, I don’t really need to choose, so it was only a matter of time before I was adding dried lavender and fresh edible flowers to a recipe for torrejas with lavender honey syrup I posted on Devour the Blog.  I had a few to spare and decided to add them to this dessert as well. A blank slate of trembling coconut custard, I loved the color they added. Now that I’d ditched the sensible snow boots and heatech layers, I couldn’t have enough flowers.

Tembleque/Coconut Custard
Adapted from Carmen Aboy Valldejuli’s Puerto Rican Cookery. Full disclosure, I actually have a box of instant tembleque somewhere in the pantry. I can’t imagine why I would need to use it because it’s possibly the simplest dessert I’ve ever made. It sets up so quickly and with no eggs to worry about, you don’t need to panic about cooking it too fast or scrambling the pudding. I used individual custard molds but decided to pour the last cup into my flower mold baking pan from Williams-Sonoma, an impulse buy from a previous Easter that’s always given me trouble.  The custard flowers unmolded beautifully with a few taps. I briefly considered taking video instead of pictures to capture the gentle shake when you spoon into it but you’ll have to see it for yourself.

4 cups fresh or canned coconut milk
½ cup cornstarch
2/3 cups of sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon dried lavender, well wrapped and tied in a square of cheese cloth (optional)
1 tablespoon orange blossom water

Ground cinnamon or nutmeg to sprinkle (optional)

Rinse 8” mold or individual custard cups with cold water and set aside.

In a large heavy saucepan, combine cornstarch with one cup of coconut milk until well blended. Add remaining coconut milk, sugar, salt, and lavender sachet (if using) and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly until it comes to a boil. Immediately lower heat and whisk vigorously until thick. Remove lavender sachet if using and stir in orange blossom water. Immediately pour into prepared molds. Allow to cool slightly then refrigerate until set.

When ready to serve, unmold by carefully sliding the knife along the edges to loosen and inverting over a serving plate. It can be coaxed out but you get a cleaner line if you let it drop. Sprinkle with cinnamon, nutmeg or both to serve.

I still remember going to see it with my sister and our two best friends.  Spending a spring break day in Coconut Grove at what we thought of as an art house theater, mostly because they played Almodóvar movies to packed audiences and French movies to half empty ones, we were all waiting to hear from colleges in New York (I got my acceptance that afternoon making the day that much more vivid).  It was also the first wide release we’d seen from Mexico so it satisfied our yearning for suburban bohemia until we could get to the real thing.

Won over by the beautiful story, beautiful Italian actor from Cinema Paradiso,  and beautiful food, it became one of our favorites.  Tita, Rosaura, Gertrudis, and Chencha translated into half-serious shorthand for each other when we were being self consciously noble, uncharacteristically vindictive, fiery and up for anything, or cheery beyond all reason.

Of course in a film full of swoon worthy food, the scene where she cooks with rose petals is the swooniest.  Reading over Laura Esquivel’s novel and some of the ingredients she listed – roses (preferably red), anise, honey – I had something sweet in mind and decided to make arroz con leche.  After adding the ground anise and letting is cool, I set out a few different toppings to try every possible combination – from chestnut honey to diced pitaya – the blank slate of rose infused pudding  mingling beautifully with anything I wanted to add, depending on who I felt like being just then.

Arroz con Leche y Rosas/Rose Rice Pudding
I love adding rosewater to desserts but I’m always wary – too little and it’ll be overpowered, too much and it will taste like perfume.  I made a bouquet garni (favorite new cooking term) dried rosebuds and added it to the rice and water while it boiled then removing it before adding milk, sugar and lemon zest.  Though I didn’t realize at the time, rose pudding is actually a Persian dessert called sheer berenj, seasoned with cardamon and chopped pistachios,  so I set those out as well.

1 cup medium or short grain white rice, well rinsed.
2 cups water
¼ cup dried rosebuds
4 cups of whole milk
Grated zest of one lemon
¾ cups of sugar
¼ teaspoon ground anise
1-2 tablespoons rose water (optional)

Optional toppings:

Chopped pistachios
Toasted almonds
Roasted chestnuts
Honey
Ground Cinnamon
Cumbled Maria crackers

Wrap dried rosebuds in small square of cheese cloth tightly gathered and tied together with kitchen twine, alternately use a sachet or tea strainer.  Add to large sauce pan with water and rice.  Bring to a high simmer over medium heat.  Stir occasionally until most of the water is evaporated, about 5-8 minutes.

Carefully remove the rosebuds and add the milk and lemon zest.  Return to a high simmer, stirring constantly.  Stir in the sugar.  Reduce heat to medium low.  Watch closely, stirring occasionally so that the rice does not stick to the bottom of the pan.  Continue cook until the rice is tender, 20-30 minutes.*

When the rice reaches the desired consistency, remove from heat.  Pour into a large mixing or serving bowl and stir in the ground anise and additional rose water if using.  Set aside to cool, serve warm or chilled with toasted nuts, honey, crushed cookies or cinnamon.

Notes:
*The arroz con leche will thicken slightly as it cools.  I err on the side of removing it soon because I prefer a looser pudding.  If it gets too thick, you can always stir in a little more milk at the end to reach the desired consistency.
**If storing for later consumption, press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming.

Tarte Tentación/Ripe Plantain Tart

3-4 ripe plantains, completely yellow and black
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup dark brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons, unsalted butter, melted plus more for greasing
2 tablespoons dark rum

For the crust:
1 1/4 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 ¼ sticks or 5 oz. unsalted butter, cubed and held cold until needed
2-3 tablespoons of ice water

To make the crust, sift together all dry ingredients and pulse in the food processor, 1-2 pulses to distribute evenly.  Add the butter and pulse together until the butter flakes into pea-size pieces.  Add ice water gradually until it begins to just hold together.

Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface.  For the fraisage or final blending, smear the dough a few spoonfuls at a time across the board with the heel of your hand.  Gather the dough with a scrapper and form into a mound.  Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Grease a 9” pie plate or rectangular baking pan with butter.

Combine the sugars, cinnamon and salt in a small bowl.  Peel and slice the plantains in half horizontally.  Sprinkle the bottom of the greased pan evenly with half of the sugar mixture.  Lay the plantains cut side up in the pan so that they’re packed in side by side.  Drizzle the plantains with the rum and top with the remaining sugar.  Finally, pour the melted butter over the plantains.

On a lightly floured board, roll out dough to about 1/8″ thick.  Prick the dough with a fork in several places to allow the steam to escape.  Lay the dough over the plantains, lightly pressing down so that they are entirely covered, folding the corners back on itself.  Place in the lower third of the oven and bake until the crust is lightly browned and the sugar has caramelized, 45-60 minutes.

Remove from oven and unmold while still warm.  Set a serving dish over baking pan and carefully flip.   Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream.

Serves 4-6.

If I was going to give in and create a Valentine’s Day post, I wanted reflect my own ambivalence and said it with playing cards.  This cake would have hearts of course but clubs, spades and diamonds too.  After all, is love a question of fate, written in the stars, a direct hit from a bratty cherub or just the luck of the draw?  I considered using fresh guavas but they can be hard to find in New York.  Worried that guava paste would be too heavy, I used it for decoration instead.  Fortunately, I had a couple of cans of poached guava shells left that were just right, sweet but not cloying.  Rich, decadent, and French-sky pink, it helped me believe there are worse things than having a day set apart to celebrate obscure Roman saints, love and friendship.

Of course, in many Latin American countries Saint Valentine’s Day goes by el día de los enamorados.  “Los enamorados” referring to couples in love – happy, content, and ready to celebrate Hallmark holidays on any given weekday – or just the people who love – the enamored.  I may be biased but I prefer the latter interpretation.  Everyone warns against being the one who loves too much so I’d rather think that the holiday celebrates them instead since more often than not the deck is stacked against them.  Feliz día de los enamorados.
Tarta de Queso y Guayaba/Guava Cheesecake

For the crust:
30 galletas Maria (about 2 cups), well ground but not powdery
6 tablespoons of unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:
1 ½ pounds cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 14.5 ounce can poached guava shells, well drained
2 tablespoons orange juice
Freshly grated zest from one large orange
1 tablespoon dark rum
¼ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt
4 eggs
1 egg yolk

Optional glaze and decoration:
¼ cup guava jelly
4 oz. guava paste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the cracker crumbs and melted butter until the mixture holds together.  Fill the prepared pan with the crumb mixture and press into the bottom of the pan to form the crust.  If necessary, use a measuring cup to level the bottom.  Bake 9-10 minutes until lightly browned.  Remove from oven and set aside to cool completely.  Tightly wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

Combine the guava shells, orange juice, zest and room in a food processor or blender and puree until smooth.  Set aside.

In an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese on medium speed till smooth about one minute.  Slowly add the sugar and continue to beat on medium high until light and fluffy, about 5 additional minutes.  Reduce speed and blend in guava-orange mixture and flour.  Add the eggs one at a time, blending well after each additional and periodically scraping down the sides of the bowl until combined.  Pour the filling into the prepared pan.

To prepare the baño de María, place the pan in a larger baking pan.  Pour enough hot water into the pan so that it comes about halfway up the sides of the mold.  Carefully place both pans in the oven and bake for one hour and 15 minutes.  Turn off the oven and cool in the oven for an additional hour.  Remove from oven and chill for at least four hours or overnight.

Cut guava paste in 1/4″ thick slices.  Using small aspic cutter, punch out small forms in desired shapes from guava paste as additional decoration.  Press into the surface of the cheesecake.

Heat guava jelly over medium heat until melted, about 3-5 minutes.  Lightly brush top of the cake with glaze.

Slice and serve.

Less easy to let go of is the overwhelming feeling that every action I engage in between December 26-January 1 forecasts the year to come.  I spent hours organizing my house not wanting to start the New Year with an unmade bed, unswept floor, or cluttered closet.  I spent so long deciding what to wear to a low-key party with friends, that I almost missed the countdown altogether.  Anxious about starting the year shoeless, I challenged my host’s shoes-at-the-door policy to no avail.  Then, after a great night (albeit in socks), I slipped backwards on some ice coming home.  Falling squarely on my Cuban passport, I pulled myself up for the first time in 2011 and decided not read too much into things.  A convenient resolution when the signs aren’t going your way.

With my annual New Year’s OCD somewhat in check, I went ahead with my plan to spend the day in the kitchen.  After years of forcing down lentils for luck (Spain, Cuba, Chile) every January 1st, I was looking for another dish to celebrate with and invited some friends over for dinner.  Really it was an excuse to try the turrón mousse recipe I’d found in Jose Pizarro’s Seasonal Spanish Food a couple of months ago.  I loved the idea of taking turrón, so closely associated with the sweetest and saddest time of the closing year, whipping them together with airy egg whites and little sherry, then serving them in a new way, taking a little of the past with me to the future.  Of course, in Mexico, I might make a list of unhappy events from the previous year then throw it in the fire before midnight but I worked too hard on 2010, good and bad, to let it go up in smoke.

Mousse de Turrón/Turrón Mousse
Adapted from Seasonal Spanish Food by José Pizarro.  Because the golden raisins (I prefer calling them sultanas) are left to marinate in sherry the night before, it literally took two years to make.  The original recipe called for just two egg whites but I increased it by one and added a little sugar to get more volume.

24 golden raisins
4 tablespoons sweet sherry
2 large egg yolks

3 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tablespoons superfine sugar
1/8 teaspoon cream of tarter
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons heavy cream
5 oz. soft turrón blando, suprema at least 60% almonds

Combine the raisins and sherry in a small bowl and marinate overnight.  Drain the fruit on the following day, reserving the sherry.

In a food processor, combine the turrón, egg yolks, heavy cream and sherry.  Pulse until well blended and smooth.  Pour out into a medium mixing bowl.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on medium speed until frothy.  Add the cream of tarter and pinch of salt and continue to beat on medium speed until they hold soft peaks. Gradually add the remaining 2 tablespoon of sugar and continue to beat until they hold stiff peaks.

Blend a fourth of the egg whites into the turrón mixture to lighten it.  Gently fold in the remaining egg whites until well combined, working quickly so the whites do not deflate.

Place 4 marinated raisins among four glasses or serving bowls.  Divide the mousse between the glasses and chill at least 6 hours.  Top with raisins or caramelized almonds and serve.

Caramelized Almonds (Optional)
The water evaporates quickly leaving behind a coating of sugar.  It’s important to keep stirring until the sugar melts and caramelizes.

7 oz. blanched whole almonds
1/2 cup superfine sugar
1/4 cup water

Heat a large pan over medium to low heat.  Add the ingredients and stir them constantly.  The water will evaporate and the sugar will melt and caramelize, about 15-20 minutes.

Working furiously the night before, I baked off two kind of cookies, made a batch of coquitos navideños (to be posted later), prepped the buttercream for the next day, and set my mushroom caps and stems in a barely warm oven to set.  While the Christmas carols I had on the spinnet (okay iTunes) became mildly menacing around 2 in the morning, I thought I had enough done to sleep a few hours, get in my Saturday run, and finish the cake before anyone got there.  Fortunately, the most forgiving friends came first because despite my best efforts, I couldn’t get my run in, needed help rolling and baking the last of the cookies, and was still finishing the cake when they arrived. Trying to recreate the light snow described in the recipe, I fussed with it until I reached a blizzard warning then stopped. Down to the wire as always but luckily just in time to celebrate.

Of course I know that “blogaversary” is the more traditional term (if that can be applied yet to the blogosphere) but I like the thought of Hungry Sofia as a bratty two-year old.  Putting up my first post and not sure if I would have the follow through to write a second or third, I was all baby fat the first year. Needing constant attention, I went off in a million directions at once, no expectations and just happy to be fed.  Toddling around the last few months, I’ve slowly found my legs, tried new things, visited other sites, gotten some amazing mentions, went live action here, and got some great feedback from all of you.   I’m a little more sure of what I like (and don’t) but am still hungry for more.

Bûche de Noël
Adapted from Tartine by Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson.  Though there are a lot of steps, Prueitt and Robertson offer options for working advance.  The buttercream can be refrigerated for 5 days or frozen up to 1 month.  Before using, bring to room temperature and beat it with a mixer on high speed.  It will separate at first but come back together.  The cake can can be assembled and refrigerated for a few days but should be frosted and decorated the day it is served.

Buttercream
1 ¼ cups (10 oz/285 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup + 2 tbsp (8 oz/225 g) granulated sugar
½ cup (4 oz) egg whites
½ tsp salt
¼ cup (2 oz) espresso

Meringue Mushrooms
½ cup + 2 tbsp (2½ oz/70 g) confectioner’s sugar
1½ tsp unbleached, all-purpose flour
2 large egg whites
1/8 tsp salt
Pinch cream of tarter
1/3 cup (2½ oz/70g) granulated sugar

Coffe syrup
½ cup (4 oz) brewed espresso
1/3 cup (2½ oz/70 g) granulated sugar

Almond Ganache Bark
1 cup (3½ oz/100g) sliced almonds, toasted*
6 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped (70 %)
¾ cup heavy cream

Pistachio “Moss”
¼ cup (1¼ oz/35 g) pistachio nuts

Buttercream:
Pour about 2 inches of water into a saucepan or double boiler.  Bring to to a simmer over medium heat.  In the stainless-steel bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the sugar, egg whites, and salt then place over the saucepan and continue to whisk until hot to the touch (120º F), about 3-5 minutes. Remove the bowl and place on a mixer stand fitted with the whisk attachment.  Mix on high speed until it holds stiff, glossy peaks, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Reduce speed to medium-high and add the butter 1 tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition. The cream will become satiny and smooth.  Reduce the speed to low and add the brewed espresso, increasing the speed to medium until well incorporated.  Set aside until needed or store for later use.

Meringue Mushrooms:
Preheat the oven to 175º F. Line a baking sheet with a silpat or parchment paper and set aside. Combine the confectioner’s sugar and flour in a small bowl and set aside.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites, cream of tarter and a pinch of salt on medium speed until they hold soft peaks.  Gradually add granulated sugar and continue to beat until it forms stiff peaks.

Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the flour-confectioner’s sugar mixture into the beaten egg whites all at once.  Work quickly, careful not to deflate the meringue.

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip (about ½” or No. 6 or 7) with the meringue.  To pipe the mushroom caps, hold bag horizontally to baking sheet and apply even pressure to press out desired size then pull bag away quickly.  If you leave a tail, smooth it out with a wet finger.  To pipe the mushroom stems, hold bag horizontally to baking sheet and make a kiss shape, pulling up directly to form a tail.  If you’re not happy with the shapes, scoop meringue back into the bag and try again.

Place the meringues in the preheated oven with a wooden spoon to keep the door ajar. Bake for at least 4 hours, rotating pans and checking regularly.  If the meringues begin to color, reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees.  When the mushrooms are ready, remove from the oven and let cool completely. If they feel soft when they come right out of the oven, they will firm up as they cool.  They can be stored at room temperature for up to a few weeks.

Coffee Syrup:
Brew espresso and dissolve the sugar in the hot coffee. Set aside to cool.

Almond Bark:
Place chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan to just under a boil. Pour the heated cream over the chocolate and allow to sit undisturbed a couple of minutes. Using a small rubber spatula or spoon start agitating the chocolate from the center, making slightly larger circles as you stir together the chocolate and cream. Stir until the chocolate melts and becomes smooth and shiny. Gently stir in the almonds. Set aside in a cool place or refrigerate up to 15 minutes so that it thickens slightly. If the mixture becomes too thick, set it over a pot of simmering water and stir with a spoon until it reaches a spreadable consistency.

Pistachio “Moss”:
Using a food processor or coffee grinder, process the pistachios to a powder.

To assemble the bûche:
Place the cooled cake lined in parchment paper on a counter or rack. Using a pastry brush, moisten the cake with the coffee syrup. Spread an even layer of buttercream over the cake leaving a 1” border on both long ends. Starting with the long end closest to you, roll the cake using the parchment paper to help lift and roll the cake tightly and evenly.*  Wrap the cake in parchment paper or plastic wrap, seam side down. Refrigerate until the buttercream is firm, about 2 hours.

Set the cake on the counter seam side down. Cut a slice off each end on the diagonal to even out the ends.  Using an offset spatula, ice the top of the cake with the almond “bark” and along the sides. Transfer the cake to a serving platter.

To assemble the mushrooms, use a small sharp knife to open up a tiny hole in the bottom of each cap. Dip the mushroom stems into the remaining chocolate bark and attach to the mushroom caps. Place the mushroom around the buche. Sprinkle with cocoa powder to make the “ground”, pistachio “moss”, and confectioner’s sugar for “snow”.

Notes:
To toast almonds, preheat oven to 350º. Spread almonds in an even layer on baking sheet and toast till lightly golden, 5-7 minutes. Cool on a rack and set aside.

*I removed the cake from the baking pan lined in the same parchment paper I’d used for baking it. It makes the transfer from pan to counter or freezer easier and gives you the most control when you’re rolling the cake.

Basic Chiffon Cake

1 cup+2 tbsp/5 1/2 oz/155g unbleached, all-purpose flour
3/4 cup/5 1/4 oz/150g sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 cup/2oz vegetable oil (safflower or sunflower)
3 large egg yolks (about 1 1/4 cup or 2 oz)
1/3 cup+1 tbsp/3 oz water
1 tsp vanilla extract
3/4 tsp lemon zest, grated
5 (about 2/3 cup)/5 1/2 oz large egg whites/ room temperature
1/4 tsp cream of tartar of lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.  Line the bottom of a 12×17-inch jelly-roll pan with parchment paper cut to fit it exactly.  Do not grease the sides.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and all but 3 tablespoons of the sugar in a large mixing bowl.  In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil, egg yolks, water, vanilla, and lemon zest.  Make a well in the flour and add the yolk mixture.  Whisk thoroughly until smooth, about one minute.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on medium speed until frothy.  Add the cream of tarter and pinch of salt and continue to beat on medium speed until they hold soft peaks. Gradually add the remaining 3 tablespoon of sugar and continue to beat until it hold stiff, shiny peaks.

Blend about 1/3 of the whites into the yolk mixture to lighten the batter.   Gently fold in the remaining whites until just combined.

Pour into the prepared pan and smooth the top.  Bake in the preheated oven until just set to the touch, 20-30 minutes.  Allow to cool in the pan on a rack,   To unmold, run a knife along the sides of the pan to loosen the cake.  To unmold, use the parchment paper to gently lift the cake out of the pan.  Use immediately to make the bûche de noël.  The cake can also be wrapped and stored in the refrigerator for 3 days or in the freezer for 1 month.  Bring to room temperature before using.

Though I love it now, it took me awhile to get there.  Coming just after dinner on Noche Buena, I thought of it as an adult dessert and waited for the cookies and brownies unless my grandfather prompted me to try one first.  Now of course I realize how wrong I was.  Marcona almonds mashed into a paste and mixed with honey, chocolate with dried fruit or creamy coconut bars – what was I waiting for?

Deciding to make my own last year, I tried a chocolate-almond variation.  Always the most accessible on the tray, chocolate was the gateway turrón that prompted me to try the others so it was a good place to start.  I thought they would make great pre-Christmas gifts this year and whipped up another batch for a dessert party later this week.  I’m still looking for a detailed recipe for Jijona and found another for yema tostada that made me long for a brulee torch.  If I decide to make them I will, no matter what day of the year it is.

Turrón de Chocolate y Almendras
I love all things chocolate and orange so I adapted this recipe from Kir Rodriguez’ Orange Grand Marnier truffles.  Any combination of almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts or dried fruits works well.

Ingredients:
250 g bittersweet chocolate (at least 70% percent)
40 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
115 g slivered almonds
1-2 tablespoons, Grand Marnier liqueur
Zest of 1 orange

Preheat oven to 350º. Spread almonds in an even layer on baking sheet and toast till lightly golden, 7-10 minutes. Cool on a rack and roughly chop.  Set aside.

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler or heatproof bowl over simmering water. Add the butter one tablespoon at time, blending well after each addition.  Remove from heat and mix in almonds, liquor, and zest until well combined.

Line a loaf pan with aluminum foil. Pour in chocolate mixture and smooth top. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours. Chop and serve.