This spring, I spent a few days working on a how-to-make croquetas for the Cooking Channel’s  Devour the Blog.  What was supposed to be a fast and easy solution for leftovers, became an ongoing project as I tried a few different variations and even planned an entire brunch around it for friends (hereto known as croquetaspringa).  Now that the post is up, I have a daily reminder when I open my freezer and batches of frozen croquetas launch out at me like so many breaded torpedoes.  Before we head into summer, I thought I’d link up and take one look back at a spring well spent.  Click here for the recipe and final post.

Ending my record breaking game of kitchen Jenga, I finally reorganized my cabinets and closets to free up some storage, found a permanent home for my favorite serving dishes, cleared up shelf space for newer cookbooks, and chose a color for the doors and window trimmings (black beauty with a pearl finish).  My spice jars are labeled and newly potted plants are thriving (for now).  These changes might seem minor to anyone but me, but the kitchen is breathing easier.

One of the benefits of my spring cleaning fit is that I can actually see everything.  Instead of going off with a list and debit card every time I find a new recipe, I’ve been using what I have.  For me this starts with Truly Mexican by Ricardo Santibañez and JJ Goode.  I love the way the book’s galleries and guides break down the ingredients so I start from there and see where it will take me.  His suggestion to chop cilantro the Mexican way, using stems and leaves to make up the called for amount, is game changing.  I also like that he gives equivalent amounts for kosher and fine salt – a distinction I didn’t realize was tripping me up.  Looking at chiles I had stored and the bag of fideos – thin nests of Spanish noodles – I’d bought a few weeks earlier , I decided to try his fideos secos (also known as sopa seca).

I’m always a little in awe of Mexican recipes and this one seemed to go long – first you prepare a tomato based chile sauce, then you quickly fry the noodles, then you bring it to a boil with large amounts of chicken stock until most of the liquid evaporates.  Something like playing with fire, it called for four different kind of chiles (árbol, ancho, guajillo, and pasilla) prepped in three different ways – toasted, soaked and fried.  Each step added a new element of smoke or heat not to mention spices like cumin, oregano and oregano and fresh herbs like cilantro, parsley, and mint.  I enjoyed them so much that after a stressful week, I decided to make it a second time.  With my kitchen decks cleared, I could just enjoy the process.  Of course I still have a new dish drainer to install and window blinds for the kitchen to get but there’s time.

Fideos Secos/Mexican-Style Noodles
Barely adapted from Truly Mexican: Essential Recipes and Techniques for Authentic Mexican Cooking by Ricardo Santibañez.  This really is a wonderful guide through some pretty intimidating recipes so I followed it closely.  I love the selection of garnishes he suggests but replaced the pork chicharrón with cured Spanish chorizo that I lightly browned before the final simmer.  I made slight adjustments to the time probably due to my broiler which is set up too close to the heat source.  Because I usually find fideos in smaller bags, I also adjusted the amount of chicken stock I added to the end but kept the sauce proportions for the sauce.  This dish can be reheated with a little chicken broth and keeps well, wrapped and refrigerated over several days.

For the sauce:
1/2 pound tomatoes (about 2 small)
1/4 pound tomatillos, wiped clean and stemmed
2 árbol chiles, wiped clean, stemmed
4 guajillo chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, slit open, seeded and deveined
2 ancho chiles, wiped clean, stemmed, slit open, seeded and deveined
1/2 cup white onion, finely chopped
5 garlic cloves, peeled
1 (1-inch) piece canela (Mexican cinnamon)
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon dried oregano, Mexican if possible
2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 1 teaspoon fine salt)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
4 to 5 cups chicken stock

For the noodles:
1 12-ounce bag fideo noodles (or thin spaghetti, such as capellini or spaghettini)
1/2 cup sunflower oil
2 pasilla chiles, wiped clean and stemmed
8 ounces cured chorizo, casings removed and sliced
10 large sprigs cilantro
6 large sprigs flat-leaf parsley
6 large springs spearmint (also known as yerba buena)
1 (3-inch) piece canela (Mexican cinnamon)

For garnishes:
4 ounces queso fresco, crumbled
1/2 cup chopped cilantro (stems and leaves)
1/2 cup salsa verde or fresh tomatillo salsa
1/4 cup Mexican crema or crème fraíche
1 avocado, pitted, peeled and thinly sliced

Prepare the sauce: Line a small roasting pan or rack with foil.  Preheat the oven broiler (alternately preheat the oven to 500º) and position the rack 8 inches from the heat source.

Core the tomato and cut a small “X” on the opposite end.  Put the tomato, cored side up, árbol chiles, and tomatillos on the baking pan and roast.  Remove chiles quickly after they’ve browned and blackened in spots, about 3-5 minutes.  Continue to roast the tomatoes until cooked through and blackened and the tomatillos have turned a khaki-green color, turning halfway through, 20 to 30 minutes.  Slip the skin from the tomatoes.

Meanwhile, soak the guajillo and ancho chiles with the toasted árbol chiles in cold water to cover until softened, about 30 minutes.  Drain and discard soaking water.

In a blender jar, combine the chiles, tomato, tomatillos, onion, garlic, canela, cumin, oregano, salt, and sugar with 1 1/2 cups of chicken stock.  Process until smooth, about 3 minutes.  Strain through a medium mesh-sieve into a bowl, discarding any solids.  Set the sauce aside.

Prepare the noodles: Break the noodles into 2- to 3-inch pieces (wrap in a cloth or break inside the bag so the pieces don’t scatter).

Heat the oil in a wide 6- to 7-quart heavy pot set over medium high heat until it shimmers.  Fry the whole pasilla chiles in the oil, turning once or twice until puffed and crisp, about 1 minute total.  Transfer to paper towels to drain.  When cool, slice the chiles crosswise and reserve for garnish.

Working in batches, fry the noodles in the oil, stirring constantly with tongs until they are a reddish-golden brown, about 2 minutes.  Drain on paper towels and repeat with remaining noodles.

Remove all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the pot.  Add the chorizo if using and cook until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes.  Remove from pot and set aside.  Off heat, carefully pour the sauce into the pot (it may steam and sputter).  Return to medium heat and stir until it thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.  Stir in 3 cups of the chicken stock, then add the fried noodles, stirring briefly to coat them with sauce, and bring to a boil.

Tie the cilantro, parsley, spearmint, and canela into a bouquet with kitchen string and drop into the pot.  Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and simmer the noodles until they are tender and have absorbed the sauce.  Discard the bouquet of herbs and canela.  Serve in soup bowls with crumbled queso fresco, crema, salsa verde, cilantro, avocado and fried pasilla.

Makes 6-8 servings.

On May 15th, the International Culinary Center is starting a new session of Food Blogging with Steven Shaw, founder of e-Gullet.  I’ve written about it before but I just can’t say enough about this class.  If you read Amanda Hesser’s advice to food writers, followed the ensuing hashtag storm, and wondered if food blogs were really over but still want to start your own, then this might be the right class at the right time.  Click here for more information about the next session of classes starting up next week!

I think I’ve put off writing my catching-up post because well…I’m no where near caught up.  Several ongoing projects came to a boil all l at once and I’m still waiting for things to settle down again.  Now that I realize it might never happen, I decided to take a break and go fishing (through my links)…

The controversy over the Miami-Tampa Cuban sandwich controversy popped up all over my new feed and even in my mailbox since my favorite sandwich obsessed uncle took the time to sent me the print clippings.  It all started when Tampa decided to claim the “historic Tampa Cubano” as their own signature sandwich.  From there, it escalated to a press-off between Miami and Tampa – from a tour of the best Cubano spots to an NPR vote.  Like any good family fight, I think it’s best to stay out of it.  Less controversial bu more heart felt, I loved Liz Balmaseda’s food tour of Miami.  It was very much the Miami I recognize and always seek out.

Of course the last few weeks have been all about Cinco de Mayo.  I always have mixed feelings about this holiday but a 36-hour tour of Puebla with the New York Times seems like a pretty good way to celebrate.  If you’re looking for more recommendations, there’s this round-up of Latin American street food.  Our to bring it all home, just consult this guide to around the globe kitchen gadgets from Gourmet Live.

I also want to thank every one who voted for my site as Best Regional Cuisine on Saveur.  The results came in and, while I didn’t win, I had to say once more how honored I am to be included in such a great group (now that the competition is safely over and you actually believe me).  If you don’t already follow them, I hope you’ll jump to She Simmers, Farmette, Jun-Blog, Taste of Beirut, and Muy Bueno Cookbook.

The James Beard awards were given out and I was thrilled to see Food 52 win the Publication of the Year award.  I was also excited to see Cuban-born Maricel Presilla win for Cucharamama.  Spanish chef José Andrés, also made Time Magazine’s 100 list while Elena Arzak was named S. Pellegrino’s Best Female Chef for Arzak.

Spring is very much about what’s ahead and the markets I look forward to all year have been popping up.  There will be more to love at the High Line (and possibly of me when summer’s over) and The Brooklyn Fleas in Ft. Green in Smorgasburg (which I swear I will make the trip to this year) had their opening days.  I’m very excited to announce that La Filosofia will be at the Hester Street Fair starting May 19.  We also put out our first commercial featuring my sister/partner Cami and our friends Carl as the narrator, Amyjoy as the delivery boy, and a sky-high dream coconut cake.

I hadn’t planned on a traditional Good Friday.  I was supposed to meet my friend Carolina, who was visiting, at the Met but was falling behind.  I’d spent the day making a tarta Pascualina or Easter pie to write about this weekend when the day got away from me when another friend who was moving to Chicago stopped by in the afternoon to say goodbye.  For the past few weeks, Aaron and I had done a lot of before-you-go things in the neighborhood but helping me finish the pie was the absolute last.  The pascualina done, I changed to plan to a low-key night at home with Carol and my sister Cami – the better to catch-up on the bear of a week we’d all had.  We were about to sit down when we heard the procession outside the window.

Since 1882, Sacred Hearts & St. Stephen Church, the oldest Italian church in Brooklyn, holds a Good Friday procession that rounds the corner of my apartment.  I know it’s a block away when I hear the distant strains of music over police sirens.  The neighborhood has changed so much that I wondered if it could really be the same as I headed down the stairs.  There were still a good number of young families at the start, the neon read cross was still the same, and the church officials in ceremonial dress were still trying to keep everyone moving.  Like every year, the rear of the procession was held by two rows of women, all in black.  Carrying candles, they escort a life-size statue of Our Lady of Sorrows and repeat the rosary in Italian.  While the earlier phase is lead by slow beating drums, these women are always accompanied by an aria.  It brings tears to my eyes every year.  It only last a few minutes, then they disappear down the street.  It was a relief to see how little had changed, but I couldn’t help but notice that fewer people had stepped out of their brownstones to watch them pass.

Though I hadn’t made the connection earlier, it was the perfect setting to serve my own very Italian Easter pie by way of Argentina and Uruguay.  Brought to South America by Genoese immigrants, the eggs in the tart symbolize rebirth and according to Francis Mallmann should have 33 layers of pastry in honor of the 33 years Jesus lived.  Already missing the music, I found Italian opera to play in the background while we ate and caught up.  It was lovely but not the same without the rosary chorus.  Felices Pascuas!

Tarta Pascualina
Adapted from Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann.  This is one of my favorite cookbooks, but I gravitate towards the recipes that don’t involve building a pit of fire – out of necessity only.  In his version of the pascualina, he substituted empanada dough for the 33-layers of pastry but I used puff pastry instead.  I also wanted the pie to have a little more depth, so I baked it inside an oven-proof cast iron skillet.  A tart ring or springform pan should work as well.  I’d recently found an Argentinian Parm which is creamier than the Italian and less expensive that worked well but other recipes called for spinach and a combination of cheeses like ricotta and mozzarella.

For the decoration, I used the trimmings from the pastry to make leaping rabbits and flowers.  As Aaron helped me decorate, I had to admit to owning not one but two bunny cookie cutters.  Though it’s traditional at Easter, this is a great make ahead brunch tart.

2 large bunches of swiss chard
2 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
4 medium onions, halved and sliced thinly
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 large eggs, divided
2 1/2 cups Parmesan, grated

Coarse salt, ground pepper, and nutmeg to taste
Pinch of red pepper flakes or merkén (optional)

2 sheets puff pastry, thawed
Olive oil
1 egg, lightly beaten

8-inch cast iron skillet or springform pan

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of butter and olive oil over medium-low heat.  Add the onions and garlic and sauté until golden, 15-20 minutes.  Set aside.

Trim the ends of the swiss chard and rinse thoroughly.  Separate the leaves from the stems reserving both.  Roughly chop the stems.  Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a steady boil.  Blanch the chopped stems in the boiling water until tender, 2-3 minutes.  Remove the stems with a skimmer or slotted spoon and chill in the ice water.  Drain in a colander and set aside.  Return pot of water to a boil and blanch the leaves until just wilted, about 1 minute.  Remove and chill in the ice water.  Combine the stems and leaves and drain both well.  Remove excess water with paper towels as needed.  Roughly chop and set aside.

Combine the chopped swiss chard and onions in a large mixing bowl.  Stir in 4 eggs, one a time until well blended.  Stir in 1 cup of the shredded Parmesan.  Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and red pepper flakes to taste.  Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Grease a cast iron skillet (or 8-inch springform pan) with remaining tablespoon of butter and set aside.

Prepare the pastry.  Roll out one sheet of puff pastry to a 12-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick on a lightly floured surface.  Fit the pastry into the prepared pan, letting the excess drape over the pan.  Brush the pastry with olive oil.  Spoon the filling into the pan and smooth the top.  Create four round wells in the filling.  Carefully drop one egg in each well.  Cover with remaining 1 1/2 cups of cheese.

Roll out remaining sheet of pastry and place on top of the pie.  Trim edges and pleat to design.  Using a sharp knife, cut tiny vents in the top of the pie.  The trimmings can be cut out or shaped for decorations.  Lightly brush with beaten egg.

Bake in the oven until it is puffed and golden brown, 35-40 minutes.  Allow to cool inside the pan.  Let cool to room temperature before serving.

I think the early spring thaw has gone straight to my head. For weeks now I’ve had Astrud Gilberto’s Tristeza (Goodbye Sadness) playing on a loop.  Suddenly, everything seems so easy – seeing friends, making plans, getting around the city.  Even though winter has snapped back just a little, no one can take away the feeling that only light layer, ballet flat days are ahead of us.  But before I can get to the chicks and bunnies, I need to catch up on March.  If you missed it, there was a lot of coverage of who was nominated for James Beard awards.  I was very excited to see so many Latin American chefs singled out.  Speaking of singular chefs, Ferran Adrià revealed some exciting plans at the Cancun-Riviera Maya Wine & Food Festival.  Most exciting (since I know I’ll get to visit) is the launch of his  LaBullipedia, a culinary Wikipedia with free access to all content.  Given the complexity of Mexican food, it also made a certain kind of sense that the Adria brothers announced plan to open a Mexican restaurant in Barcelona. In more Spanish chef news, Jose Andres is getting ready to open Bazaar Miami in May and playing with his new favorite “toy” – a food truck named Pepe in the meantime.  Closer to home, Eater held its first Bodega week (not sure if that’s really a thing).  Responses from food writers and chefs on their favorites were pretty bleak, as was this Curbed  piece on the possible demise of the bodega as we know it.  I still love the bodega on my subway stop.  One of the few hold outs from the formerly Latino stretch on Smith Street, I find items there I couldn’t get  in a million Whole Foods put together.  This entry on the best bodega taquerias as at least shows what hidden gems you can find if you know where to look.

I always love coming across a copy of Edible Manhattan so I was thrilled when they asked me to contribute two pieces to their first ever dairy issue (March/April 2012). Tasked with finding the city’s best tres leches, all signs pointed to Daisy Lebron at  Bizcocho de Colores in Upper Manhattan. On what seemed like the only cold day this past winter, I made the treck to the opposite side of the island and was rewarded with an amazing tres leches (or two).  It was a treasure in a plastic clam shell. Click here to read Uptown, a Dominican Confection Makes Life Three Times Sweeter which includes an extended photo gallery by Elizabeth Leitzell. I also spent a few days navigating the fresh cheese cases for No Passport Needed: In the Supermarket Case, Queso. Also included in this issue, a great profile on everyone’s fantasy cheese shop Murray’s Cheese, the suprisingly local Greek yogurt, and  the end of Milk Thistle which I didn’t quite believe until I went by the farmer’s market this Sunday and passed the empty spot where they should have been.

We’d been expecting her for a long time but were still a little surprised when she finally showed up at our door – a little black peacock named La Filosofia. Months before, my sister Carmen and I were looking for a project we could develop together. I wanted it to be kitchen related since I live in there, and my sister thought of an apron with a laminated pattern just at the splash spot, where the torso meets the counter.  Practical yes, but when we found a collection of canvas in woodland prints, we knew they could be lovely to look at too.

We decided to name our new online venture La Filosofia after our great grandfather’s department store in Havana. Established in 1870 on the corner of Neptune & San Nicolás, the original La Filosofia was known for its textiles, international clientele, and warm staff that stocked something for every woman who came through its doors. We want everyone who clicks through to have that same feeling. Looking for a logo, my sister drew up a peacock and we immediately knew who we were waiting for.

Of course, we wouldn’t have gotten much further without the help of our mom Ali (the not always silent partner) and friends who were beyond generous with their time - Dave who did the lawyering, Cara who helped us build a prototype, and Kat and Aaron who each gave up a beautiful early Spring day to help us taks photograph for the site.  The ever supportive Darren of Donna Belle’s Bakeshop put us in touch with a The Work Room, a Brooklyn based production company. There, Chase and Lisa saw us through every aspect of the process, fulfilled every seemingly impossible request, and answered nervous emails with unwavering patience and enthusiasm. Once the materials were sourced and a stateside manufacturer found, we just had to wait for our bird to arrive, bringing lots and lots of aprons with her.

Used to working on my own, for the first time I had a partner (sometime guest blogger and all-time sister) with whom to choose patterns, test out eco-twills, sort out copy, and design the website .  Fortunately, in addition to our quick tempers and fierce stubborness, my sister and I have a shared sensibility.  Even when we couldn’t agree on how to get somewhere, we never doubted where we were going. We very much hope you’ll want to come with us. Here’s La Filosofia - we hope there’s something for everyone.

It’s turned out to be a fast and furious month and far more eventful than the nose-down-let’s-just-make-it-to-spring February I was expecting. Starting it off in Miami, I happily ate my way through my post-run recovery in the name of research. Back in New York, I missed the crowds of the SOBWFF that descended on South Beach but found Black Book’s roundup here. A few friends also sent me this link (hints?)  for the black bean cupcake with guava frosting that were featured at the festival so I may have a taste of it soon. Mostly, it was exciting to see so many high profiles chefs with Miami roots highlighted, like this update on Douglas Rodriguez and a feature on prominent Latina chefs like Michelle Bernstein and Lourdes Castro.  In celebration of Brazil’s carnival, another great Latin American chef, Leticia Moreinos Shwartz did this fun segment on feijoada for the Today show that you can see here.

Going farther out, Ignacio de Los Reyes did a great piece on the exciting state of Mexican cuisine that manages to be uniquely contemporary while staying true to thousands of years of tradition. Don’t miss the photo essay on Mexico City’s San Juan market that accompanies it. Whether you’re planning 48 Hours in Lima, Peruor need to not be completely at your desk for a few minutes, this Reuters link includes great food ideas. Before you go anywhere though, it might be helpful to read this piece on international food etiquette rules.

On a personal note, I was thrilled to see my post up on Freshly Pressed this month! Overwhelming in the best way, it was incredible to hear from so many of you and discover fantastic new sites that made the wordpress world just a little smaller. Hope you enjoyed the leap!

]]> http://hungrysofia.com/2012/02/29/catching-up-in-february-2/feed/ 0 hungrysofia http://hungrysofia.com/2012/01/31/catching-up-in-january-2/ http://hungrysofia.com/2012/01/31/catching-up-in-january-2/#comments Tue, 31 Jan 2012 23:55:26 +0000 hungrysofia http://hungrysofia.com/?p=11855 ]]> I know these round-up posts should come just before or just after the New Year, but I wouldn’t feel like I’d given 2011 it’s due if I didn’t round up some of my favorite posts last year. Filled with ups, downs and in betweens, I was in great company Vista and iVillage, visited a new Food Republic, and had a regular place to visit on Devour: the Blog. I can see now that it was actually very sweet year. Here are a few more reasons why in case you missed them…

1.  Panquecitos de Naranja

2.  Guava Cheesecake

3.  Arepa de Dominó

4.  Tembleque

5.  Casting Mojitos

6.  Huevos Falsos

7.  Grilled Corn and Quinoa Salad

8.  Padrón Peppers

9.  Croquetas de Jamón

10. Hot Chocolate with Máchica

11. Empanaditas de Calabaza

12. Mantecados de Ánis